Tag archives for Durban

Exactly one year ago I was traveling in South Africa, exploring the disparate coastal cities of that magnificent country while filming a documentary for the National Geographic Channel: “The World In Two Cities”. As someone who normally stands behind the camera, it was a terrific honor to host such a well-made film in such a…

No matter where I travel in the world, it’s the people I remember most. More than any other aspect (food, architecture, nature, history), it’s the people who make a place. Nowhere is that more true than in the great city of Durban. My week-long exploration of this city-by-the-sea revealed many things, beginning with the realization…

Umlazi

Everyone kept telling me the townships were so dangerous, but I think that only applies to cows and goats. A lot of cows die in the townships—every time there’s a birth, or a wedding, or a funeral, a cow gets stabbed in the back and then cooked on a fire. Among the Zulu in Durban,…

A dead, dried-up monkey hangs from the shop, next to a gaping set of shark jaws. Strips of dried animal skin dangle in a row, and as I walk past, I guess at each remnant’s former animal life: a crocodile, an antelope, a vulture, and several long black mambas. Beneath the display, on a hand-constructed…

I’ve only eaten one bunny so far, but I am sure to devour at least one more before I leave. Bunnies are delicious. Bunny chow (or “a bunny”) is classic Durban cuisine: a hollowed-out square loaf of soft bread, filled with rich, spicy HOT curry that you eat with your fingers. It’s messy, very yummy,…

Gandhi’s neighbors are very loud. It is a sunny Sunday morning and sane people are in bed with the paper and a cup of tea—or else in church or on their way to the beach. But way out here in Inanda township, the house next door is blasting earth-shaking drums and wild marimba noise that…

New city, new language. That is the beauty of South Africa. Just drive a few miles and everything changes. Cape Town is lovely but now that I’ve arrived on the other side of the country, I must switch gears. Durban is the center of KwaZulu-Natal, the great Zulu kingdom and the western fringe of the…