Riding Horses on Padre Island
It’s about time I got on a horse.
I have zigzagged four thousand miles across Texas by car, but all the comfort and speed of machines can never compare to trotting a mile or two in the packed sand of Padre Island.
Out here, on the world’s longest barrier island, the ocean meets the fringe of Texas with ruffled rows of grey-brown surf. Far away from the plains and prairies and hills and desert, the dull-colored sandbar fades casually into the deep blue Gulf.
This land was made for horses. All over Texas I have watched them graze, nipping at spring shoots in Panhandle fields and scraping at the sage brush of Big Bend, and yet only when I arrive at land’s end do I actually swing my leg up over a leather saddle, grab the reins and really get to traveling.
McLeod is an icy white thoroughbred with a sandy mane and deep wet eyes. He is a giant beast, all muscle and backbone and haunches—and his keeper warns me right off the bat: “You gotta watch him, now, he won’t sit still long.”
“Yeah?” I ask, a little concerned. I am no stranger to a jumpy horse.
“He’s anxious to travel,” they say.
“Well then—we have something in common,” I reply and slide my palm along McLeod’s velvety face.
My horse begins walking, stepping into the dunes, oblivious to the other horses and their respective tourist loads. For the first twenty minutes we get to know one another. I make sure he knows I like a slow and steady pace—I pull up on the reins and hold him back, then release to let him move ahead. He makes sure that I know how much he hates me pulling on his reins—that he likes the water and staying ahead of the pack. Also, he doesn’t like the smaller brown quarterhorse and the smoke from a far away fire and that curious little dog running in the sand.
We get along, this animal that is carrying me down the beach and I, the distant Texan returned home. My month has passed by too quickly, the vastness of this place still a whirl in my head, but now, on horseback—with the soft rhythm of cold ocean waves—only now does my mind slow way down and I feel myself relaxed in the saddle, toes pressed against the stirrups, riding, riding.
Puffs of sand blow away from each hoof as they pull out of the dune; long and beautiful horsetails twitch and swish as the dune flowers flap like flimsy yellow crepe paper in the wind.
The wind is always blowing here, long and strong. It was blowing on the day I arrived in Texas and it is still blowing now—blowing McLeod’s slender mane to the west. Everything else disappears and we are alone—just me and my horse and the great big sea. Hooves splash into the surf and all I do is keep riding—riding and riding across another beautiful mile of Texas.
Related Topics
Go Further
Animals
- Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?
- This pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilienceThis pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilience
- Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them?
- Animals
- Feature
Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them? - This biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the AndesThis biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the Andes
Environment
- This pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilienceThis pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilience
- Listen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting musicListen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting music
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?
History & Culture
- Beauty is pain—at least it was in 17th-century SpainBeauty is pain—at least it was in 17th-century Spain
- The real spies who inspired ‘The Ministry of Ungentlemanly Warfare’The real spies who inspired ‘The Ministry of Ungentlemanly Warfare’
- Heard of Zoroastrianism? The religion still has fervent followersHeard of Zoroastrianism? The religion still has fervent followers
- Strange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political dramaStrange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political drama
- How technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrollsHow technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrolls
Science
- Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?
- Can aspirin help protect against colorectal cancers?Can aspirin help protect against colorectal cancers?
- The unexpected health benefits of Ozempic and MounjaroThe unexpected health benefits of Ozempic and Mounjaro
- Do you have an inner monologue? Here’s what it reveals about you.Do you have an inner monologue? Here’s what it reveals about you.
- Jupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of yearsJupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of years
Travel
- Follow in the footsteps of Robin Hood in Sherwood ForestFollow in the footsteps of Robin Hood in Sherwood Forest
- This chef is taking Indian cuisine in a bold new directionThis chef is taking Indian cuisine in a bold new direction
- On the path of Latin America's greatest wildlife migrationOn the path of Latin America's greatest wildlife migration
- Everything you need to know about Everglades National ParkEverything you need to know about Everglades National Park