Archives for October, 2011

Vampires and Witches

Whether or not you believe in vampires and witches, the city of New Orleans is filled with them. I know because I spent my pre-Halloween weekend surrounded by both. On Friday night I attended the Anne Rice New Orleans Vampire Ball, a decadent and dimly-lit festival of enthusiasts dressed either as fanged bloodsuckers or buxom…

Adolfo’s

“Monica! MONICA!” A short, wiry-haired man in a rumpled suit coat yelled a woman’s name down the stairs. Three seconds later, a party of four  scrambled up the slanted wooden steps and took their place at one of the tiny square tables not far from where I was sitting. The one-room upstairs restaurant was cramped…

Spooky Louisiana Cemeteries

Ornate, whitewashed stone cemeteries are as much a part of southern Louisiana as the cypress trees and dangling Spanish moss. French Catholic tradition and the extremely high water table mean that many Louisiana cemeteries are built above ground. The jumble of crosses and melancholy statues definitely adds to the gothic feel of this strange corner…

Gal Holiday & The Honky Tonk Revue

Another night, another great musical discovery. I have to say, the music never stops in this city on the river. After a luscious meal at Arnaud’s, I head on over to Mimi’s in the Marigny, a bar and music club that’s so effortlessly cool, I felt all the cool seep into me the second I…

Behind-the-scenes Beignets

Eating beignets at Café du Monde is a New Orleans tradition that goes all the way back to 1862 when the coffee stand first opened up in the city’s French market. Today it’s the most renowned café in the city, open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and serving their amazing powdered-sugar lovelies…

Voodoo with a U

If you throw a mandrake root on the ground, it will point to whomever is lying; angelica has strong protective properties, while dragon’s blood is simply powerful and magical. Among the dozens of jars of dried flowers, roots, powders and oils lining the shop’s walls lie a thousand possible cures and charms. “I sell supplies…

Smoking Time Jazz Club

The problem with New Orleans is having too much of a good thing. Too much good food (beignets, pralines) and far too much good music. Walking down Frenchman Street last Saturday night felt like spinning the radio dial and listening to one great station after another every few paces. Imagine a dozen clubs side by…

I Wanna Be in that Number

62 to 7. I would call that a victory. Such was the final score of last night’s game between the New Orleans Saints and the Indianapolis Colts–a game that I was able to watch firsthand right in the famous gold-sided Mercedes-Benz Superdome. But wait–not only did I get to watch the game live in New…

One Hour in New Orleans

“That man does not love you, he is not in love with you.” From behind the closed curtain I can hear a smoker’s voice rasping into a speaker phone, “He has never loved you but don’t worry baby, I see another marriage for you next year and then another baby–healthy, of course.” The psychic reading…

My Louisiana Ghost Story

In an unnamed house in an unnamed town in a state named after King Louis XIV, I met a ghost. We were never introduced properly – in fact, the housekeeper denied any and all ghosts the minute I walked in. “Oh no, it’s not haunted – at least I’ve never seen anything,” she announced as…